Experience Horseshoe Bend Like Few Have
Most travelers to Arizona view the iconic Horseshoe Bend from above, with others who crowd around the edge. Some even spot the tents at the very bottom of the canyon, on the rivers edge. Almost all who visit will just take some pictures and continue on their journey.
What if I told you there is another way? One that is far more peaceful, less crowded, immersive, and wild.
Experience Horseshoe Bend the right way, by kayaking or paddle boarding down the river and camping if you wish along the dramatic Marble Canyon walls. For those who want a quick view, tours up and down the Marble Canyon are available as well and worth it.
This is the type of trip that helps you to connect with nature in a unique way. Furthermore, you do not have to be an expert or that adventurous to take part. Explore this hidden gem and while you are at it, give Fossil Creek Swimming hole at chance.
The Adventure: Up-River Drop, Down-River Paddle
To kayak Horseshoe Bend, you’ll need an outfitter to take you up the river and drop you off, unless you plan to hike in or take yourself up. Lees Ferry is the starting point for an outfitter to take you up river and for those who will be going down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. The outfitter you go with can drop you off at a few different spots, but the best is to go up the river 15 miles, where you will see Glen Canyon Dam.
After being dropped off, you can enjoy a leisure paddle down stream with a gentle current. The only rapids you would ever come into contact with are those from boats going up the river. With a relaxed pace, you will have the opportunity to take in the towering red cliffs, blue herons, wild horses, and bighorn sheep to name a few. We were lucky to see a few on the second day.
You have two options for paddling the river, either you can go down the river on day one and camp overnight, which is what we did. The second option is to do the whole 15 miles in one day or only go up half of the river. Alternatively, you can technically camp out for 14 days if you wish, but most people do not do this.
Outfitters to Consider
- Kayak the Colorado: This is the backhaul company that we used. They took us up the river and also was where we rented our kayaks. Would highly recommend them.
- Backhaul: $80 + tax/person
- Rentals: $35 ~ $50 depending on watercraft (single/tandem/paddle board)
- Wilderness River Adventures: Another great back-hauler company to consider.
Try to book your shuttle in advance – some outfitters will book up during more popular times during the spring and fall. Even with outfitters booked up you will never see it busy on the river compared to other places. In fact, the only problem would be camping sites, since these are limited. There is also a lodge close by to stay at if needed at Lees Ferry.
Campsites Along the River
As you go down the river you will notice that there are limited amount of primitive camp sites available. Between Glen Dam and Lees Ferry you will find bathroom only sites and 5 first-come-first serve campsites.
There are no amenities present except a few sites that will have a compost toilet. You will need to pack out anything you bring in. Bring plenty of water.
- 14 Mile Ropes Trail Campsite: This site is located at mile 14 and is on the right side of the river by a bend, when looking downstream. About 30 feet upward you will find the camping areas with rings. The beach area is not very shady, is not that big in order to store your gear, and dose not offer a great location to fish. Ideal if you start during the late afternoon and take your time by camping overnight.
- 11 Mile Ferry Swale Campsite: One of the most popular campsites. This site will usually fill up first and see people throughout the year. A great site for large groups and the beach area is ideal as well, but lacks sufficient shade. With enough room to leave your kayaks, enjoy the water, and fish as well. There is also access to some hiking above the site as well.
- 9 Mile Petroglyph Beach/Horseshoe Bend: This site is located around the bend that you see from above when looking at Horseshoe Bend. It is a sandy area that has petroglyphs on the cliffs. This is a great site to stop at and hike a small bit, even if you are not camping. Large area that allows the campsites to be dispersed. Like mile 11 campsite, this one is popular and fills fast. In fact, if you ever looked down from Horseshoe Bend, then you might of seen a tent or two, which would of been this campsite or mile 8.
- 8 Mile Beach Campsite: Still within the bend of the Horseshoe Bend, this site is the least used, but offers decent camping spots, a large beach area, and the opportunity to hike to 9 mile site. This is the campsite we choose, but if we could do it again would try for mile 9 or 11. In my opinion, it was still an adequate site, but the beach area at 9 was better.
- 7 Mile Campsite: Only used if you have a portable toilet since it lacks compost toilets. It has a small beach and limited shade.
- 6 Mile Campground: Since this is the last campsite available, it can sometimes fill up. There is no other spots to camp after this, so plan accordingly with time.
Hikes Along Horseshoe Bend
- Mile 14 Ropes Trail hike.
- Mile 1o Petroglyph Panels on the left side of the river.
- Mile 9 Horseshoe Bend River Plateau behind the campground.
- Mile 4 Waterholes Canyon Trailhead that is a 1.5 mile round trip trail into the slot canyon.
Best Time of Year To Go
The best time of year to kayak down the Colorado River in Marble Canyon is spring and early fall. We went in early June, which is probably the last part of the season that would be tolerable to go and camp. Technically, you can go during the summer, but expect temperatures over 100 degrees F. If you wish to do the summer months then be on the river in the early morning or late and try to camp at a spot that is shady.
What To Expect On The River
- Location: It is 42 miles from Page, Arizona via Hwy 89 south and Hwy 89A west. The Lees Ferry Junction is in Marble Canyon, which is down a paved 5 mile road from the Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center.
- Distance: ~15 miles from Glen Dam to Lees Ferry
- Difficulty: Easy with calm waters and a few waves when boats pass.
- Time: Depending on stops and how fast it should take 4-9 hours. This can be done in a day or split it up and you can camp overnight.
- Permit: You will need to grab a free permit at the kiosk in the parking lot or beforehand.
- Parking: There is parking at Lees Ferry but will cost you $30 per vehicle or free if you have a National Park Pass.
- Weather: Early mornings are the calmest and usually the best to go down the river. The weather can change rapidly and you are in a large canyon without much protection so be prepared for wind, rain, and thunderstorms.
- Lees Ferry Campground: If you wish you can camp at Lees Ferry that has allocated 54 sites, with a $20 fee for first-come-first-serve.
- Rules:
- Must wear life jacket at all times on the river
- Stay to the sides of the river to avoid boats.
- Must bring out all trash you take in.
How to Get Up The River
You have 4 choices when it comes to getting up Marble Canyon. The first is to hire an outfitter to take you and your gear. Secondly, you could haul yourself up the river. For those who wish to do the easier route, then the third choice of a tour company would be the best for you. These companies will take you up and down while telling you about the history, but expect larger groups of more than 20 people. The last option for the even more adventurous people is to hike in with your gear yourself.
What To Pack
On The River
- Water (bring extra since there is no place to fill up)
- Smart to take a Hydro Flask or two to keep water cold.
- Water shoes
- Dry bag for gear
- Snacks/meals
- Headlamp/flashlight (it will get very dark at night)
- Sunglasses
- Hat
- Sunscreen
- Beach Towels
Gear to Bring If You Have It
- Kayak PDF Life Jacket: We use the NRS Ninja PDF Jacket for kayaking and when we do other water activities.
- Patch Kit: especially for paddle boarders; we ending up helping someone who had a leak and no patch kit.
Camping On The River
- Tent
- Trash Bags
- Chairs to sit; we recommend a lightweight folding camping chair and easy to pack up to fit into the kayak.
- Frisbee or some games to keep you busy; great time for Catan Travel Edition.
- Tarp or shade contraption (this will be ideal during the middle of the day if it is hot since not very many places offer shade)
- Portable stove for cooking if desired
- Wood (yes you can have a fire in the canyon, but can not forage for wood)
- Some people will leave extra wood they don’t use. If you forgot to grab some, like we did, then you can look around and might find some at different sites. This is what we did and it worked out, but we were lucky).
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Common Questions
Can I go all the way up to Glen Canyon Dam?
No, you can not. About 1/4 a mile from the dam will be three buoys that mark where you can not go past. This is due to federal regulations and the safety of you, as well as the dam. Water is released from the dam periodically.
If there is a fire restriction in the area can I still have a fire?
Yes, you can. The canyon and the fire pits are the only place you can. The fire restrictions do not affect the canyon.
What is the difference between Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon?
Marble Canyon is considered to be the beginning of the Grand Canyon with the Colorado River running through it. In fact it was almost the site of a proposed dam, but it was abandoned in 1968. The Grand Canyon starts where the Little Colorado River joins the Colorado River, which is down from Lees Ferry. Marble Canyon was once its own Monument before it became part of the Grand Canyon National Park, in 1975 bay President Ford.
Why Kayaking Down the Colorado River by Horseshoe Bend Is Worth It
This is one of the most underrated water adventures in Arizona that most do not know of. In fact, my wife and myself did not know until someone else mentioned it by chance. It is an adventure we plan to do again and take more people to share with next time. You’ll see the iconic Horseshoe Bend from a new perspective. Taking it up a notch with an unforgettable night by camp under the stars in the canyon. Come explore Arizona and try Horseshoe Bend from a different angle.
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